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Village under the shadow of a volcano

Cemoro Lawang village

The small village of Cemoro Lawang hosts the entrance to the huge 800 square km Bromo National Park. It sits just next to the active volcano at 2217 m.a.s.l. and it is one of the 30 villages in the area of Tengger mountains where the indigenous Tenggerese communities live. It is also the closest starting point for a tour of Bromo volcano.

Village of Cemoro Lawang
Village of Cemoro Lawang
Local woman from Cemoro Lawang
Local woman from Cemoro Lawang

Highlight of Java Island

Bromo volcano is on the route from Yogyakarta to Bali and is a definite highlight of Java Island that should not to be missed. Its surreal landscapes, unusual traditions, as well as the opportunity to actually stand on the rim of a still active volcano are unique experiences worth your while. You can choose to hike, rent a Jeep or ride a horse all the way up the caldera.

I chose to hike.

You need a face mask to protect you from huge amounts of ash

Tenggerese people

Tenggerese are one of the rare Hindu communities left on predominantly Muslim Java. These agriculturalists and nomadic herders have, like the Balinese, incorporated elements of Buddhism and Animism into their religion. Their beliefs include worshiping the spirits and ancestors and their rituals are performed by special priests. It is believed that the priests have special knowledge of the gods and the spirits which are hidden from ordinary Tenggerese.

Local man on a horse bellow Bromo
Modern meets the tradition
Local Tengger women waiting for tourists with beverages
Local Tengger women waiting for tourists with beverages

God is angry, but it will pass

For them Mount Bromo is one of the most sacred places and when it erupts they believe their god is angry. After the eruption in 2016. their local priest called dakun said: ‘The spirit is angry but it will pass in 6 months’ – they listened and haven’t moved despite the warnings.

Local Tengger men on horses
Local Tengger men on horses

Annual Kasada festival

Yadnya Kasada is a month long main Tenggerese festival where the locals come to the area to ask for the blessings from the God of the Mountain by throwing money, fruit, rice, veggies, livestock and other local produce into the crater.

Local woman carrying flowers to be given as a sacrifice to the volcano
Local woman carrying flowers to be given as a sacrifice to the volcano

What legends say

The legend has it that the king and queen couldn’t have children so they climbed to the top of the volcano and prayed for help. God of Mount Bromo answered their prayers but under the condition that their youngest child is sacrificed to the volcano. It is believed that after the king and queen sacrificed their 25th child Tenggerese started to commemorate the festival.

Local carrying a shoulder pole with bananas in the village
Local carrying a shoulder pole with bananas in the village
Two older women exchanging goods
Two older women exchanging goods

Life at the edge

Due to climate and high elevation they cannot grow the usual staple crop of rice so they grow potatoes, corn, cabbage and onions in a two-season year. They live a hard working and simple life that their environment demands.

Local kid from the village
Local kid from the village
Local woman carrying a basket on her head
Local woman carrying a basket on her head

On your own or with a tour

The development of tourism certainly changed the lives of the community that was largely isolated throughout history, but like many others they adapted and now they welcome tourists from all over the world. If you are an adventurer you can choose to do the tour on your own (though probably not if you don’t have any experience – this is not the place to start traveling on your own) and Kristine gives a pretty good tips on how to do it (https://www.bemytravelmuse.com/mount-bromo-without-a-tour/). Alternatively you can join one of many tours from Bali, Yogyakarta or Surabaya in Java.

Check out more stunning landscapes of Bromo volcano.